My Cat Scratches The Furniture

You can best prevent destructive chewing and investigation by providing an environment that meets your cat’s needs.

Cat-proof your home by building a play center where your cat can climb, perch, and scratch. Provide a few toys your cat can bat around, such as spring-mounted, dangling, or bouncy toys. Indoor cats with little access to grass or other vegetable matter may chew house plants. Offer them lettuce, catnip, or a kitty herb garden in exchange.

To keep your cat away from problem areas, first try child locks, barricades, or closed doors. For persistent problems or areas that cannot be barricaded, use remote punishment, taste and odor aversion, or booby traps as deterrents. Never use physical punishment — it may cause your cat to fear you and to stay away from the problem area only when you are around.

Scratching is a normal behavior that allows your cat to condition its claws as it marks its territory. It also provides an opportunity for a nice stretch.

To prevent destructive scratching, keep your cat away from tempting areas, trim its nails regularly, and provide a proper scratching post. Encourage your cat to use a scratching post by placing one near its favorite sleeping area and perhaps a second post in a prominent area.

If your cat continues to scratch in an inappropriate area, put a post in there. Food rewards will help keep your cat interested in the post and away from your furniture. If scratching persists, cover the scratched surface with plastic or short strips of double-sided tape. Another option is to use plastic coverings that fit over your cat’s nails. These are available from your veterinarian.

If you have sincerely tried to solve the problem but still encounter destructive scratching, declawing may be a final consideration. It is certainly a better alternative than banning the cat outdoors or taking it to an animal shelter. In numerous studies, declawing has been shown not to have detrimental effects on a cat’s behavior or personality.
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About The Author
Anita Hampton http://www.eliminatecatodour.com

Wool Sucking In Cats

As cat owners know, cats will do some of the craziest things. Most are harmless, however, often cats will display abnormal, destructive behaviors. One such behavior, categorized as an inappropriate consumptive behavior is wool sucking. As it implies, a cat displaying this behavior will suck or chew on wool. The owner of such a cat might also find that the cat sucks or chews on the armpits of their sweaters, unfortunately when they are wearing the sweater!

Needless to say, this can become a very bothersome (and embarrassing!) habit. Wool sucking cats seem to prefer a woven material such as a sweater instead of raw wool. In some cats, the sucking begins with wool, but then progresses to other available materials such as cotton or even plastic. The behavior most often begins at puberty and, if left untreated, can lead to serious digestive illness and destruction of household items.

Why Do Cats Wool Suck?

The majority of cats that display this behavior are Siamese and this fact gives a strong indication that it can be inherited. It is not, however, related to any nutritional deficiencies, external stresses or to the sex or reproductive stage of the animal. One hypothesis is that this may be a behavior that is “left over” from the prolonged six-month suckling period that is common in feral (stray or wild) cats. Since domestic kittens are usually weaned at six weeks, this may result in suckling deprivation that is expressed by the sucking of man-made objects such as wool. Unfortunately, this idea has not been tested experimentally.

It has also been thought that cats may wool suck because the odor of lanolin in wool is similar to the odor of the fur around the nipples of the kitten’s mother.

What to do With a Wool Sucking Cat

The treatments available to the owner of a wool sucking cat include behavior modification, drug therapy, and, in extreme cases, euthanasia.

Obviously, every attempt to control this behavior should be made in order to avoid having to put the animal down. This takes patience and perseverance on the part of you the cat owner.

Behavior Modification

The following are a few steps that you could take to help control a cat’s wool sucking behavior: The first step is to remove any objects that the cat may suck or chew on.

This may mean confining the cat to one room of the house. In order to encourage the cat’s natural meat eating instinct, a supply of rawhide or bones could be made available to the cat (no chicken bones!).

The next step in involves the use of some punishment: One method is to thump the cat on the nose and say, “No” when it begins to suck.

(Editors Note: The above statement is exclusively the viewpoint of the article writer and not of the staff of this blog. We do not condone nor endorse any form of physical punishment or aggressive behavior towards any animal.)

Another is to spy on the cat and use the trusty water pistol any time a cat is found sucking. In order for this kind of discipline to work, the punishment must be delivered immediately after every incorrect behavior occurs. For this reason, punishment often does not work because you cannot always punish the cat the moment it begins to suck and every time it sucks. The cat will take advantage of this and often turns the situation into a game. It will begin to sneak and lurk around to try and avoid getting caught. For these crafty cats, the use of slightly sprung mousetraps hidden in clothing may be effective. This allows punishment to be delivered even if you are not around.

Another technique that can be used involves a bottle of your favorite perfume and a bottle of Tabasco sauce. This method relies upon the association of a certain odor with a bad experience to deter the cat. By applying the perfume and hot sauce to an item of clothing, the cat that sucks on the clothing will associate the smell of the perfume with the unpleasant taste of the hot sauce.

Chemicals that can be administered

If punishment and/or the hot sauce do not work, there are various substances that you can give to your cat.

Since one possible explanation for wool sucking is a craving for lanolin, it can be fed to the cat. Although no nutritional deficiencies have been found in wool sucking cats, it has been found that feeding the cat a diet high in fiber can eliminate the behavior in some cases.

It has also been found that administering 0.5 g per day of thyroid hormone also controls some cases of wool sucking. For cats where none of the above treatments work, anti-anxiety drugs (e.g. amitriptyline HCL) may help however there are side effects to these drugs.

Prevention

Unfortunately, since it is not known exactly why cats wool suck, there are not many steps that you can take to prevent this behavior from occurring. However, here are a couple of points to keep in mind:

Siamese cat breeders should wait until kittens are 12 weeks old to wean.

This ensures an adequate suckling period. A cat displaying wool-sucking behavior should not be used for breeding because there is the possibility that the kittens could inherit the behavior.

Conclusions

Wool sucking is a peculiar and destructive behavior that is often hard to control. However, there are many ways in which this behavior can be controlled or eliminated, and with the development of new drugs, there may be even more options in the future. A lot of time and patience are required to successfully control wool sucking but these are rewarded by a normal cat, and clothing without holes!

http://www.eliminatecatodour.com

About The Author
Anita Hampton http://www.eliminatecatodour.com

A Cat’s Amazing Whiskers

Have you ever experienced the tickle from one of your cat’s whiskers as they brush against your face or neck? I have been tickled on many occasions from each of my cat’s as they rub up against me for attention or curling up on my shoulder to go to sleep. I never really thought about what they use their whiskers for, all I really knew is that they tickled me a lot.

Besides giving each cat their own unique distinction, whiskers are a functional part of a cat. Whiskers are a sensory system for cats made up of nerve endings that allow them to feel the lightest touch, even an air current.

Cats are known to be farsighted and they will use their whiskers to move around in those areas that they are not able to see clearly. Even cats that are blind or their vision is deteriorating will rely more on their whiskers to move about. Cats that are born with their vision impaired will often have longer whiskers to help them move around. If a cat were to lose their whiskers, they would more than likely bump into things.

You also can tell the mood of your cat from their whiskers. When your cat is calm you will see that their whiskers will be pushed forward. And if your cat is stressed out or is being defensive their whiskers will be pulled closer to their face.

If you have more than one cat, have you noticed that the whiskers of each of them are not the same? The length of a cat’s whiskers even varies between breeds. I currently have three cats and have noticed that each one has whiskers that are different in length to the others. I have also noticed that Tiggy my oldest cat has a few whiskers that are not all white, but have some black in them. While the other two, Leena and Cooper, have whiskers that are all white.

Most of us see the cat’s whiskers above their eyes and around their mouth, also called muzzle. But did you know that they also have whiskers on the back of their front legs or what would be considered their wrists. I never knew that, but after I read about it, I looked on mine and they have them. They are not as long as the whiskers on their face, but they have them.

Whiskers do get very long and some people are tempted to trim them thinking that they should be to help the cat. But whiskers are never to be trimmed, cut, or any other method of removing them. The cats do have nerve endings in the whiskers and they will feel the trimming and it will not be pleasant for them. Have you ever touched one of the whiskers on your cat’s face? Did you notice them blink or twitch? It is because their whiskers are very sensitive and should be treated with care.

Whiskers can be ticklish when applied to us in the right fashion, and they are a very distinctive characteristic on a cat. We should always leave a cat’s whiskers alone, as they are their guide to moving around.

About The Author
Sharon Cowherd maintains Caring for Your Cat, a blog about her experiences and knowledge of caring for her cats. You can read more about Sharon and her cats at http://www.caringforyourcat.com

Let Sleeping Cats Lie…

Most cat lovers allow their cherished pets to sleep on the bed, and I am afraid that I am no exception- mine sleeps with me every night. It’s a good job that I am currently single, as I don’t think she’s tolerate a partner in there and I may be faced with a tough choice!

We have our routine. She will lie at the foot of the chair whilst I am working on my computer. When I make a move to get ready for bed, she follows me into the kitchen for supper. I go upstairs, and she will follow me when she is ready. I use the bathroom and she uses her litter tray; we often synchronise our eliminations!

I snuggle into bed, and after a few minutes wait, she will jump onto the bed and walk up and down, demanding fuss and purring her pleasure. After a few minutes of this, she will settle down, usually in the middle of the bed, and preferably touching the bulge that is my body beneath the duvet. After several more minutes, she will curl up and go to sleep properly.

She will usually sleep until I wake the next morning, but has been known to wake me at 5am if she decides that it’s breakfast time. I have also woken up to find her curled up on top of me- luckily I don’t move much during the night!

She may have condemned me to a life of permanent spinster hood, but I wouldn’t have her any other way!

Returning Home…

I recently went away for a few days, and left my little cat in the care of my next door neighbour. Now, I enjoy going away, but I really hate to leave her, so I have so many mixed feelings…

She knows when I’m going away- she knows just as soon as I reach into my wardrobe and pull out my battered old holdall. I then get the behavior that every cat lover comes to know so well- the turning of the back, the martyred expression, the full feline guilt trip.

I am always a little worried about her reaction when I return- will I be ignored for days on end, and punished in lots of little ways such as refusal to eat, play or be petted? When, if ever, will I be forgiven?

I needn’t have worried- as soon as I push open the door she bounds down the stairs, giving off little welcoming cries of delight. I pick her up and hold her against me, feeling her chest vibrate as she starts to purr.

Cats. It’s almost worth going away again to come home to a welcome like that! (Only joking, Lucky!)

Cat Behavior Problems; The Most Common Problem & How To Deal With It

Cats make excellent pets and have recently overtaken dogs as Britain’s favourite pet. There are many reasons for this shift but it may well be a reflection of the fact that our lifestyles have become busier and more hectic so we no longer have the time to devote to more demanding pets. Cats need less space, less food, don’t need to be walked twice a day and are generally easier to care for. However they can be prone to behaviour problems which may lead to extremely unpleasant ‘deposits’ around the home, ruined furniture and limbs covered in bites and scratches. Here is some information regarding the most common cat behaviour problem and some tips to help treat it…

Failure to use the litter box or house soiling is undoubtedly the most common cat behaviour problem. Cats may stop using their litter box/tray or even have trouble learning to use it in the first place. One thing to remember is that you should never punish the cat by ‘rubbing it’s nose in it’. This method of correction has never worked and will only serve to make the cat even more traumatised, thus adding to the problem.

The three main reasons for failing to use the litter box/tray are: –

1. Medical Problems such as:

· Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD)
· Bacterial Infections
· Tumours
· Kidney Disease
· Liver Disease

Treatment

· Always take the cat to a reputable vet in the first instance in order to rule out the possibility of any medical problems.
· If there is more than one cat in the household, all will need to be examined.

Once all medical problems have been ruled out, you can consider the following: –

2. Problems with the litter box/tray itself:

· Not emptied often enough
· Not clean
· Too many cats using the same box
· Overuse of deodorizers
· Changing the type or brand of the litter
· Changing the location
· Too near to ‘frightening’ domestic appliances e.g. the washing machine

Treatment

· Change the litter at least once every 3 days or as often as daily for some cats
· Ensure deposits are removed on a daily basis
· Clean the box with an odourless disinfectant – there are many brands available designed especially for litter boxes
· If there is more than one cat in the household, make sure, where possible, each has it’s own litter box
· Introduce any new brand/type of litter a little at a time, mixing it with the old brand/type. Do this until eventually you are using only the new brand. If this doesn’t work, you may have to consider returning to the old brand/type.
· If the box has been moved put it back to where it was previously. If this is not possible, put the box on the spot that the cat is choosing to use and then move it towards the desired new location at a rate of one foot per day
· Move the box away from the ‘frightening’ noise or move the appliance that’s causing the problem
· Consider a covered litter box/tray. This gives the cat more privacy, which many prefer and it also helps with odour control and prevents litter being kicked out of the box.

3. Stress/Trauma:

· New cats introduced to the household
· Visitors, especially large gatherings e.g. a party
· Workmen carrying out work in the household
· Moving house
· A change in routine e.g. new working hours
· Problems with other cats in the neighbourhood
· A new baby

Treatment

· Try to give each cat it’s ‘own space’ within the household and introduce them gradually spending a little more time together each day. The unfortunate fact of the matter is that if the soiling continues to be persistent, then it may be advisable not to keep the second cat
· Remove the cat to another area of the house along with it’s bed, litter box, food and water when visitors are present
· The above point can be used when workmen are in the house as well but if it is likely to be for more than a couple of days or very noisy then you should consider placing the cat in a cattery until the work is finished
· Tranquillisers prescribed by your vet may be effective or consider products like Feliway also available from your vet as a spray or in a diffuser
· A new baby sometimes means the cat can become jealous. Give your cat plenty of attention to reassure it that you still love him/her

Above all, remember that punishing the cat using pain or fear will completely destroy any relationship you may have with him/her. At the very least, discipline in this way is likely to escalate the problem and will very likely result in the cat leaving the household altogether to escape the ‘abusive human behaviour’.

About The Author
Paul Bicknell recommends Solutions To Cat Behaviour Problems. See more at http://www.cat-answers.com.

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